Dry setups probably get most of the focus on the F1 games, because more sessions are dry on balance, but it’s important not to overlook wet races and therefore wet car setups on F1 23 or any other game. Wet conditions are often where the driver can make the most difference with having a finely tuned setup and driving style.

Therefore how do you convert a dry race setup to a wet race setup on F1 23? How do you modify a normal setup to make it more raceable in intermediate or full wet conditions?

That’s what we’re going to cover in this post, but here is a bottom line quick answer:

To convert a dry race setup to a wet race setup, add 5-8 clicks on the front/rear wing values depending on the track, and raise the ride height 2-3 clicks. For intermediate conditions, dry setups can work fine, but it’s also advised to add 2-3 clicks to the wing values.

But there’s a lot more to it than that and a lot more moving parts to consider, so let’s analyse how to get a good wet setup in more detail.

More Detailed Process To Convert Dry Setups To Wet

The biggest factor that determines your speed in full wet conditions is the front and rear wing angles you run – the higher the better since more downforce is what helps during cornering in wet races.

Key Change #1 – Wings:

In general, you’re looking to increase your front and rear wing values significantly to convert a dry setup to a full wet setup, usually between 5-8 clicks higher depending on the circuit. You can go even 10 clicks higher if you’re struggling to get round the corners.

Here are some general suggestions for different track types:

• Max downforce tracks (Monaco, Hungary, Singapore) – you’re already close to max wing levels anyway even in the dry, so just bump up to max
• High downforce/twisty tracks – Increase wing levels significantly as cornering now becomes much more important for lap times than straight line speed. Anything up to 10 clicks higher for full wet conditions.
• Medium/low downforce tracks – Increase wings 5 clicks and test from there if there are still some long straights you need to keep up speed on.
• Lowest downforce tracks (Monza, Las Vegas) – May get less benefit from increasing wings. Try a few clicks higher and test lap times.

Key Change #2 – Ride Height:

The second major setting to change in full wet conditions is the ride height, since having a ride height that’s too low in heavy rain conditions can mean the car “aquaplanes” and loses grip, effectively sliding across the water that’s accumulated on the track. You can’t really run the same ride height levels you would in the dry in full wet conditions.

Increase your front and rear ride height 2-3 clicks on the wet and test performance from there.

Other small setup tweaks you can make that can make a difference are:

• Wing spacing – As a pad user, I find that keeping the rear wing 2-3 clicks higher than the front wing helps with stability and traction in the wet. I increase both the front and rear wing, but keep the rear wing above the front wing.
• Suspension – Softening the suspension a few clicks for better grip and traction
• Diff – Reducing on throttle differential to 50 for easiest traction if you don’t already use this. Helps with exits out of slow speed corners, especially in the wet.
• Brakes – Lowering brake pressure slightly to keep up more minimum speed and prevent locking.
• Tyres – Lowering tyre pressures a few clicks can also help deliver slightly better traction, but it’s not usually a massive effect.

Saving A Generic Full Wet Setup

For players that really don’t want to be messing around creating unique full wet setups for every single track on F1 23, here’s a baseline, generic template setup you save to your profile that’s  a decent starting point, from which you can just adjust the wing level depending on the circuit:

• Wings – 47/50 (high downforce tracks); 40/43 (medium DF tracks); 25/28 (low DF tracks)
• Diff – 50/55
• Camber – RRLL
• Suspension –  28-8-8-1-40-43
• Brakes – 95/55
• Tyres – Minimum or close to it front & rear

This is only a baseline starting point and you can optimize a lot from there on different tracks. On some circuits for example, you might want lower wings than that even in full wet. But it’s something you can save, load up and test/adjust in wet conditions for each track.

Converting Dry Setups To Intermediate Setups

Intermediate conditions are somewhat less tricky than full wet ones, and dry setups can actually work OK in intermediate conditions.

But increasing the wing values on a dry setup a few clicks can deliver more pace in intermediate conditions.

And again, there are some other tweaks you can make, but are not essential and down to personal preference:

• Pad users can keep the rear wing 2 clicks higher than the front for better stability.
• Softer suspension
• Higher ride height
• 50 On Throttle Diff

But if you want to keep it simple, just add a few clicks of wing to your dry setup if you’re going to be racing a long time and wet conditions.

Some Wet Race Setup Resources

All this is just general advice on making a dry setup more raceable in the wet. If you’re wanting more precision to really calibrate and tune a car setup to get those extra few tenths in wet conditions, check out these resources which offer definite wet setup guides for all tracks on F1 23

Primary resource:

• SimRacingSetups YouTube Channel – Offers unique, custom full wet setups for all tracks on the game. THE definitive resource for more precise wet car setups.

And then some other useful setup resources:

• F1laps.com – Another car setup forum with pages for every track, and loads of custom wet setups posted as well as dry setups.
• F1gamesetup.com – An even more specialized resource with custom setups, every car and every track, wet and dry weather.