Braking is one of the hardest aspects of the MotoGP games to get used to. And on MotoGP 23, the handling physics have been changed yet again, so it’s a whole new braking/cornering technique to learn again versus the ’22 game.

If you haven’t really played these MotoGP games before, it can very tricky to get used to braking and cornering, so I wanted to provide a specific guide for each game that takes into account the specific handling on each edition.

Here’s a simpler list of steps to brake properly in MotoGP 23:

1. Apply the front brake in a straight line and when the bike is upright.
2. Don’t apply the front brake for too long.
3. Gradually release the front brake as you turn into the corner apex.
4. Optionally use a small amount of rear brake on it’s own in heavy braking zones.

The good news is that I would argue the general braking process is easier on MotoGP 23 than MotoGP 22 once you get used it. It’s easier overall to make corners. But it’s still a different method you need this year that takes some practice to get used to, so let’s cover simple and then more detailed points on braking.

Key Tip – The Front Brake Is The Most Dominant

This is something that’s not mentioned much in guides on this, and total beginners to the MotoGP games can be left confused since there’s now an input for both front and rear brakes. So which do you use and when?

On MotoGP games, the front brake is the most dominant one, and most often used. The rear brake can be used as an optional additional complement to add more stopping power, but isn’t essential and some players barely or never use it.

And on MotoGP 23, this is even more accentuated than usual, with the front brake taking even more precedence than other games. The general stopping distance seems to be shorter on this game, meaning the rear brake is required less often, plus it’s seems more easy to unsettle the bike and fall off using the rear brake on the ’23 edition.

Therefore, the front brake is the one you need to use primarily on MotoGP 23.

How To Brake (More Simple Beginner’s Method)

For players totally new to the MotoGP games, you’ll probably constantly find yourself over-running corners since the braking and turning model is totally different to other 4 wheel racing games. You need to brake and lean in for corners much earlier than on other games, and it takes a while to get used to.

Here’s a detailed rundown of the simpler braking process for newbies for MotoGP 23:

Step #1 – Choose braking/reference point – Use the Ideal Trajectory aid when learning the tracks to make this easier. You need to brake much earlier in MotoGP bikes than in 4-wheel cars. Also, especially for MotoGP class bikes, it is often a good idea to come off the throttle and “coast” a little before the racing line indicates braking, to avoid coming into the corner too hot and leave more “leeway” for braking.

Step #2 – Apply the front brake – Apply the front brake firmly but smoothly (70-100% pressure depending on speed and cornering). To begin, do this ONLY when the car is pointing in a straight line and upright, not leaning. This is even more important than normal on MotoGP 23, where the bike is more easily unsettled by poor braking technique. Also, if riding unassisted, pull back on the left analog stick to shift the rider’s weight backward and avoid “stalling.” Also, downshift the gears if you have a manual transmission (I would leave them in semi-automatic while you learn how to handle them).

Update – Don’t apply the front brake for too long on MotoGP 23 as it causes lock ups. Depending on the braking zone, either apply it firmly but briefly and then release and turn in, or take several stabs at it, pressing and releasing and applying again.

Step #3 – Applying The Rear Brake (Optional) – Less important on MotoGP 23. But when braking hard in a straight line into a sharp corner after a long straight (eg. Turn 1 Mugello), you can also add some rear brake, but be sure to just dab it and not hold it as it unsettles the bike more this year. But it’s not as important as on previous games and you can probably mostly manage with just the front brake. I used the rear brake a lot on ’22, but a bit less on ’23.

Step #4 – Ease Off The Brakes – Once you’ve scrubbed off enough speed to make the corner, come off the brakes and lean into the corner. Again, you need to do this much earlier than 4 wheel racing games, so it takes some getting used to. Aim to follow the racing line as closely as possible for the best lap time and dab the rear brake on it’s own to get the bike tucked in more if needed.

Step #5 – Back On Power – Once you’ve hit the apex and the bike is upright or almost upright again, ease back onto the accelerator and exit the corner. For chicanes and other sections with multiple corners in quick succession, you might not even need to apply throttle and instead start turning again straight away to make the next corner.

This is the more simple method of braking that works fine but doesn’t deliver the absolute best lap times. There’s a more advanced method called “Trail-braking” that we’ll cover further below.

Braking Assists on MotoGP 23

The entire Assists or Riding Aids setup has changed for MotoGP 23, to make it simpler and more compacted. Now, your assists all come under the Game Experience tab, and there’s actually less to tweak this year.

Your braking assists setting is really now all contained within the Neural Braking setting. Here’s a guide to the 3 main settings you can use:

• On – Full setting that literally does all the braking for you, like having the Auto Brakes assist on on MotoGP 22. Good to use if you’re literally brand new to these games and want to have the game handle all the braking for you, while you learn the track layouts and steering physics. Not good to leave on long term though as it really slows you down.
• Moderate – Good setting for novice to intermediate players to use. Modulates some of the braking input for you, but you still have most of the control of when and how to brake. Good to use if you know the track layouts and want more finesse on the brakes.
• Off – For experienced players. You control 100% of the brake input, with no modulation or correction from the game. Gives you better control and performance if you can master it, but makes lock ups and crashes more likely if you apply the brakes incorrectly.

Differences In Braking Between MotoGP 23 and MotoGP 22

For players like me coming directly from the previous MotoGP 22 game, it’s quite a different braking and handling model in general. It’s not the same at all as last year.

Here are some key differences between the two games:

Braking Distance – The braking distance is actually shorter on MotoGP 23 – you can brake later and get the bike stopped and turned into corners more easily than MotoGP 22. The brakes and general engine braking seem to scrub off more speed more quickly on this year’s game. Which is a relief as braking was super hard on that game.

Over-running Corners – Because it’s generally easier to get the bike stopped and turned into the corner initially, I’m actually finding myself over-running corners far less than on MotoGP 22. This is one aspect of the handling that definitely feels easier on ’23. It’s easier to make the corners for sure without overshooting and landing on the grass/gravel.

Brake pressure – It’s not advised to go to 100% pressure for either the front or rear brakes very often, if at all, on ’23, as it unsettles the bike more if you’re also leaning. 90-95% pressure at most is better – the shorter braking distance this year means you can get away with using less pressure.

Twitchy/nervous bike under braking – This is one aspect that seems more tricky on ’23. It’s easier to lose the rear end of the bike when you brake whilst also leaning, especially when over-applying the rear brake. Be very careful leaning and braking at the same time – try to get your braking done in a straight line and only dab the rear brake very lightly on certain corners when needed.

Downhill braking zones – Seem to be much harder on MotoGP 23 and it’s more easy to get that “wobble” where you lose control. Need to brake earlier and in a straight line, and don’t brake whilst also leaning into a downhill corner. You can lose the bike very easily doing this.

See here for a quick controller calibration tweak I found for the game that might make braking a little bit easier – just reducing the braking Saturation setting a little to apply less pressure and prevent lock ups.

How To Avoid The Bike Wobbling/Crashing Under Braking

The braking on MotoGP 23 is more sensitive in the sense that it’s easy when you first play the game to get these weird “wobbles” where the bike loses control under braking.

Here are some pointers about how to avoid this:

• Always aim to brake in a straight line as state above, not while leaning.
• Also for heavier braking, it’s sometimes better to keep pressing on fully but then releasing the brakes, then pressing again (taking a couple of dabs at it rather than just pressing and holding the front brake continuously, which seems to cause lockups)
• For heavier braking zones into sharp corners, I’m also sometimes applying the front brake only to get the bulk of the stopping done in a straight line, then releasing and coasting round the corner, using additional dabs of the rear brake only to get the bike tucked in a bit more if it’s running a bit wide. In other words, using the front and rear brake, but separately and not together.
• Don’t apply the front brake when leaning, especially when corners are also downhill/uphill. Much easier to crash the bike on ’23 when you do this.
• Also don’t apply the front brake when quickly changing direction (tight chicanes), as this can throw you off the bike.
• To get the bike tucked more into tighter corners/chicanes, it’s better to use just the rear brake on it’s own (see here for a controller calibration tweak to make using the rear brake easier).

More Advanced Braking Method (Trail-braking)

Despite having just told you that you shouldn’t brake while the bike is leaning, I’m about to partially contradict myself by talking about “trail-braking”. This is a more advanced method of braking to explore once you’ve mastered the simpler method above and can consistently make corners and set decent lap times.

This method does involve using the brakes at the same time as turning. But you’re gradually coming off the brakes at the same time you’re leaning into a corner, not applying them.

Here’s how it works:

1. Move quickly and smoothly to 80-100% brake pressure with your input.
2. Still keep the brake applied, but gradually release the brake as you approach the apex of a corner
3. How much and how quickly you need to release the brake while turning into a corner to avoid falling off, is something you’ll need to learn through trial and error and practice.

It takes a lot of practice to master this method of braking, but if you do, it can allow you to carry more corner speed and deliver better lap times. It’s just very hard to find that optimum level of how quickly to come off the brakes while leaning, and how much brake pressure is too much.

And on MotoGP 23, this is even more difficult, as the bike is more easily unsettled when applying too much braking while also turning. You’ll see those “wobbles” as the rear end loses control quite often if you over-do the braking. It’s probably better to get the simpler braking method mastered first before trying this method.